A friend of mine asked me to write him about the average, the mundane of daily life here in Thailand. So far, I’ve written only two (epic-ly long) e-mails to him describing, in some very colorful language, what happened to me on that particular day – today being one of those two days.
Mostly, these two emails highlighted my inability to eat at the rate Thais want me to, my general lack of knowledge about what exactly is happening at any given moment, and the randomness that seems to fill every second of every day. It made me wonder if my life was like this in America but I wasn't pay attention so I didn’t notice, or if I was just so focused on the big picture that I failed to absorb the little, wonderful things about my days. Like I couldn’t see the forest for the trees, or in this case, the trees for the forest.
So, I’d like to share a piece of today with those of you who care enough about me to read this (thank you), because it is the best example of normal and mundane and a fairly accurate description of what my daily life is like. And I’d like to apologize to my friend, if he reads this, for repeating myself and this ‘mundane’ day, so I’ll throw in a few more details for his sake.
Today I should have been able to sleep in for an extra hour. Last night was “Cowboy Day” which meant everyone wore denim and plaid shirts, ate lots of pork and fish, and watched interestingly clad dancers and singers on a stage set up outside the office. I’m sure there was a purpose to this, perhaps it was a fundraiser or celebration of sorts, but as usual I had no clue what was going on. Regardless, this meant I was at work until 10pm and had to catch a ride home from a co-worker since it’s too dangerous to ride my bike at night. This also meant I had to catch a ride to work this morning as well for I’m not allowed to ride on motorcycles and my host family doesn’t own a car, and my bike was at work. Anyway, my co-worker said she would pick me up at 9am, which meant I could sleep for an extra hour. YAY!!
A random shot of the singer and dancers at Cowboy Day
However, that didn’t happen. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this before, but all Thai villages have a PA system that broadcasts songs and news throughout the town. And boy are they LOUD. And lucky me, this morning there was an announcement an hour before my alarm was supposed to go off. So, I lay on floor listening to the opening song and then what was being said very carefully. Last week, the announcement was about me. I woke up at 7am on Saturday to an announcement about what I would be doing that day. Now, I know I have limited Thai, but I know my name, the words most often associated with me, and my schedule. But today they didn’t mention me. Probably because it was going to be a mundane day.
After the announcement, I got up to shower. My first of the day. Showers are a big deal here. I’m not sure if it’s as much a cultural thing as it is a necessity in this sweltering heat, but it’s one of the things I talk about the most. That and if/what I've eaten.
Before I made it out of the door to my room, I was asked if I had eaten yet. No. I showered and walked back to my room. On the way, I was reminded that breakfast was on the table. Now, breakfast can be derived of any random food that happens to be available in or around the house, or whatever was for dinner last night. But, at least in my house, it always includes eggs in one of the egg’s various forms. And it ALWAYS includes rice. Sometimes there are chicken legs. Sometimes there is a soup with pork balls. Sometimes there is a cold noodle dish that tastes citrusy and spicy. Sometimes all of these things are present. And because my host family at site is AMAZING and they treat me like a princess, they always have coffee, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and fresh mangos set out, too, because I told them that’s what I like to eat. But what I didn’t mention is that this is all for me. This has ALL been set out for me.
Today I had coffee and a strawberry wafer cookie thing because it looked pretty. We were out of bread, so no pb&j today. My co-worker arrived 30 minutes early and we attempted a conversation while I finished my coffee. Speaking Thai is mentally exhausting.
When we rolled into work, I saw that they were setting up for another meeting. There is an outdoor meeting area and for the past couple of days, they have had all-day meetings. I have no idea what they are about even though I sometimes help with set up. I can’t read Thai. I’m illiterate here. I hate it.
I also saw a group of people gathered under a little tent off to the side of the meeting hall. In an effort to practice Thai, I asked my co-worker what that group of people was doing. She told me, but I didn’t understand. I went into the office and rattled off a couple of emails and checked facebook, and told a couple of folks that, yes, I had already eaten. But after about an hour, curiosity got the best of me. I asked again what the people were doing in that tent and if I could go watch. Again, I wasn’t clear on the answer so I just walked outside and went to investigate.
It was a group of elderly women and they appeared to be making brooms and welcome mats/rugs. I asked if I could watch. They said yes, immediately offered me food, and then they said some things I didn’t understand. So I sat down and watched them for a while. Then, one of the women brought me materials to make a rug. For the next two hours I worked on my rug and used a hook to pull pieces of fabric through a potato sack with lining around its edges. At first I was awful and clumsy and everyone laughed at me, but I laughed, too, and it wasn’t long before I got the hang of it. I had a great time with those women, even though I was dripping sweat, was sitting on the ground in my skirt, and my legs kept falling asleep.
Then it was lunchtime. One of my counterparts retreived me from the rug-making tent and took me to the open-air meeting area. They were serving curry and an unfamiliar soup, along with rice. I went for the curry first and got about two bites in before they determined it was too spicy for me (it wasn’t), moved the curry out of reach and put the soup in front of me. I didn’t like the soup. But they are protective of me, and for that I am appreciative, so I ate some anyway. But I didn’t eat much. Sadly, I don’t ever eat much here. I’m still adjusting to the changes and the food and am often, and unfortunately, sick.
I went back into the office to check my e-mail. Before I sat down, I was asked if I’d eaten lunch yet. I said yes and that I was full. But I was asked again by three other people – just to make sure. Again, I’m not sure if this is a cultural thing or if it is because it’s one of the things I can actually talk about with people. Regardless, they brought me some snacks and a piece of cake. I said no thank you, but they asked me to at least try it. “Chim chim!” It was so cute and I didn't want to hurt their feelings so I tried the snack. I didn’t like it. But they were excited that I tried it so I finished it. Then I ate my piece of cake, which was actually quite good. Normally, I don’t like Thai sweets, but the cake tasted vaguely like American cake and I was excited.
As looked over the news and was doing some research on the upcoming Thai holiday (didn't want to be ignorant), one of my co-workers opened the window between our offices and motioned for me to come to her office. She does this daily and because of my lack of language skills, we mostly just sit and look at each other. Or she’ll ask me a series of questions about how much things cost in America or if I eat rice every day in America. The usual curious cultural questions which I’m happy to answer. Today, she immediately asked me if I’ve eaten, if I’d like to eat, or would I like a snack. Yes. No. No. Disappointment. We stared at each other until she told me to sit down. She opened Google translate and typed something. The translation made no sense – not in any context whatsoever. Whatever she typed in Thai had been translated into “Sarah will kick it.” I spent the next 5 minutes trying to explain what the word “kick” meant to her and a couple other interested office staff by going around kicking things and saying “KICK!” and having them repeat it. This made me feel like a jerk.
Eventually, everyone got bored with Google translate. But then my co-worker remembered a friend of hers, who is married to a German man, is in town. After a lot of confusion and a few phone calls, it was determined that we will walk down the street to her friends house so I could speak English with the German husband.
When we arrived, I felt very awkward and guilty for interrupting these people's day. But they were very gracious and welcoming and we began to talk through bits of broken English, Thai, and now, German. The German man didn't speak much English. I speak about three German words, none of which were helping. But through my mixture of English and Thai he and his wife were able to put together - in German - what I was saying. We went on like that for about 2 hours. Then my boss called and said everyone at the office missed me. The family and I exchanged emails and they told me I was welcome to visit any time. I can even visit them in Germany, they said. We returned to the office. I really wanted to finish my rug, but I saw the ladies are cleaning up, so I hoped they would be back tomorrow.
After a while, I headed home on my bike. When I got there, my host sister asked me if I was hungry and handed me a bowl corn, sugar, and coconut shavings.
After the announcement, I got up to shower. My first of the day. Showers are a big deal here. I’m not sure if it’s as much a cultural thing as it is a necessity in this sweltering heat, but it’s one of the things I talk about the most. That and if/what I've eaten.
Before I made it out of the door to my room, I was asked if I had eaten yet. No. I showered and walked back to my room. On the way, I was reminded that breakfast was on the table. Now, breakfast can be derived of any random food that happens to be available in or around the house, or whatever was for dinner last night. But, at least in my house, it always includes eggs in one of the egg’s various forms. And it ALWAYS includes rice. Sometimes there are chicken legs. Sometimes there is a soup with pork balls. Sometimes there is a cold noodle dish that tastes citrusy and spicy. Sometimes all of these things are present. And because my host family at site is AMAZING and they treat me like a princess, they always have coffee, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and fresh mangos set out, too, because I told them that’s what I like to eat. But what I didn’t mention is that this is all for me. This has ALL been set out for me.
Today I had coffee and a strawberry wafer cookie thing because it looked pretty. We were out of bread, so no pb&j today. My co-worker arrived 30 minutes early and we attempted a conversation while I finished my coffee. Speaking Thai is mentally exhausting.
When we rolled into work, I saw that they were setting up for another meeting. There is an outdoor meeting area and for the past couple of days, they have had all-day meetings. I have no idea what they are about even though I sometimes help with set up. I can’t read Thai. I’m illiterate here. I hate it.
I also saw a group of people gathered under a little tent off to the side of the meeting hall. In an effort to practice Thai, I asked my co-worker what that group of people was doing. She told me, but I didn’t understand. I went into the office and rattled off a couple of emails and checked facebook, and told a couple of folks that, yes, I had already eaten. But after about an hour, curiosity got the best of me. I asked again what the people were doing in that tent and if I could go watch. Again, I wasn’t clear on the answer so I just walked outside and went to investigate.
It was a group of elderly women and they appeared to be making brooms and welcome mats/rugs. I asked if I could watch. They said yes, immediately offered me food, and then they said some things I didn’t understand. So I sat down and watched them for a while. Then, one of the women brought me materials to make a rug. For the next two hours I worked on my rug and used a hook to pull pieces of fabric through a potato sack with lining around its edges. At first I was awful and clumsy and everyone laughed at me, but I laughed, too, and it wasn’t long before I got the hang of it. I had a great time with those women, even though I was dripping sweat, was sitting on the ground in my skirt, and my legs kept falling asleep.
Then it was lunchtime. One of my counterparts retreived me from the rug-making tent and took me to the open-air meeting area. They were serving curry and an unfamiliar soup, along with rice. I went for the curry first and got about two bites in before they determined it was too spicy for me (it wasn’t), moved the curry out of reach and put the soup in front of me. I didn’t like the soup. But they are protective of me, and for that I am appreciative, so I ate some anyway. But I didn’t eat much. Sadly, I don’t ever eat much here. I’m still adjusting to the changes and the food and am often, and unfortunately, sick.
I went back into the office to check my e-mail. Before I sat down, I was asked if I’d eaten lunch yet. I said yes and that I was full. But I was asked again by three other people – just to make sure. Again, I’m not sure if this is a cultural thing or if it is because it’s one of the things I can actually talk about with people. Regardless, they brought me some snacks and a piece of cake. I said no thank you, but they asked me to at least try it. “Chim chim!” It was so cute and I didn't want to hurt their feelings so I tried the snack. I didn’t like it. But they were excited that I tried it so I finished it. Then I ate my piece of cake, which was actually quite good. Normally, I don’t like Thai sweets, but the cake tasted vaguely like American cake and I was excited.
As looked over the news and was doing some research on the upcoming Thai holiday (didn't want to be ignorant), one of my co-workers opened the window between our offices and motioned for me to come to her office. She does this daily and because of my lack of language skills, we mostly just sit and look at each other. Or she’ll ask me a series of questions about how much things cost in America or if I eat rice every day in America. The usual curious cultural questions which I’m happy to answer. Today, she immediately asked me if I’ve eaten, if I’d like to eat, or would I like a snack. Yes. No. No. Disappointment. We stared at each other until she told me to sit down. She opened Google translate and typed something. The translation made no sense – not in any context whatsoever. Whatever she typed in Thai had been translated into “Sarah will kick it.” I spent the next 5 minutes trying to explain what the word “kick” meant to her and a couple other interested office staff by going around kicking things and saying “KICK!” and having them repeat it. This made me feel like a jerk.
Eventually, everyone got bored with Google translate. But then my co-worker remembered a friend of hers, who is married to a German man, is in town. After a lot of confusion and a few phone calls, it was determined that we will walk down the street to her friends house so I could speak English with the German husband.
When we arrived, I felt very awkward and guilty for interrupting these people's day. But they were very gracious and welcoming and we began to talk through bits of broken English, Thai, and now, German. The German man didn't speak much English. I speak about three German words, none of which were helping. But through my mixture of English and Thai he and his wife were able to put together - in German - what I was saying. We went on like that for about 2 hours. Then my boss called and said everyone at the office missed me. The family and I exchanged emails and they told me I was welcome to visit any time. I can even visit them in Germany, they said. We returned to the office. I really wanted to finish my rug, but I saw the ladies are cleaning up, so I hoped they would be back tomorrow.
After a while, I headed home on my bike. When I got there, my host sister asked me if I was hungry and handed me a bowl corn, sugar, and coconut shavings.
I'm not a huge fan of coconut corn, so I didn't eat it. Instead, I sat at the table looking at it. Then she told me it was time for dinner and we were going to the som dtam stand by the river to eat. YAY! So we got on our bikes and went down to the stand where we feasted upon meat-on-a-stick and papaya salad.
The river. (a view from our table)
What we ate.
With my host sister, Tum, at the som dtam stand. Plates cleaned!
And that was my mundane day.
This was by far my favorite post thus far. Big fan of pictures of the food. I find it fascinating. I have no idea why. And that short story about google translator and KICK made me laugh out loud. Literally.
ReplyDeleteKeep up the good work Sarah. Write as much as possible and take photos. This would be a great travel book when you one home.